7 MINUTES TO HEAVEN IN JASPER, CANADA

The journey began — cold, rainy and dreary — giving no inkling of what was going to happen in the next seven minutes.

I was at the Jasper Tramway in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada; standing at the foot of a wall of a mountain, the Whistler Moutain, rising above me, covered in a green poncho of coniferous trees. I peered deeply to catch a glimpse of the Hoary Marmot squirrel when I was told that the mountain gets its name from the squirrel, with its famous whistling alert call, and which resides in the Alpines. But in vain.

I couldn’t see the tip of the top; it was gobbled up by gloomy grey clouds. But, I did see the red buggy-of-a-tramcar being spit out by the not-so-happy clouds and making its way towards the bunch of us gaping at it.

My heart sank a little. Should I even be doing this? But I have lived long enough to know that the answer to that question should always be a ‘Yes’, especially if you want to experience life in the raw; and all that it offers. Because at the end, it always adds up -in a nice way.

Jasper Tramway  is a guided aerial rope-way in the Canadian Rockies – the longest and highest ride in Canada. If the rain gods feel benevolent and put a leash on their minions (the grey clouds) then you will get a breathtaking view of the six mountain ranges of the Rockies, Alberta’s longest Athabasca River, glacial fed jewel-toned lakes and the scenic town of Jasper below.

On that cloudy morning I doubted the benevolence of any Gods, though Jack-the-6’2-Aussie tramway tour guide insisted that we "have a little faith". I did – he asked nicely, after all.

We got into the tramcar at 4279 ft above sea level. It chugged its way up, up and up. It would take us seven minutes to reach the Upper Station at 7472 ft.  Easy ride. But we could hardly see anything with the clouds cloaking everything in sight. And then….somewhere between the sixth and the seventh minute the tramcar broke through the blanket of clouds and emerged on the other side… OMG! Is heaven only a seven-minute ride away from earth?

The sun was a brilliant-over-sized diamond embedded in a blue-blue sky; I felt like I could touch it if I had the courage to reach out. And then the clouds…. whitest of white, pure, fluffy, cottony, playful and inviting….under my feet.

In the the Upper Station, which is 7500 feet above sea level, is the Treeline restaurant;  on a clear day you can see Mt.Robson, the tallest Canadian Rockies peak. Stepping out of the restaurant, you can walk along the boardwalks surrounding the station — covered in mist, with the feeling of fluffy white clouds accompanying you on the walk.

From the station, a 1.4 km trail takes you to the Whistler’s Summit. And from here you can have a magnificent view of the Columbia Icefield and Glacier lakes.  Enroute you can snoop around for Hoary Marmots, Ground squirrels, Moose and Pikas. Of course, I didn’t get to see any of these, since I was mesmerized on the trail, trying to hold the mist in my hands or to peak at the handsome Mt.Robson jutting out from a sea of white cotton-candy-cloudscape. Simply breathtaking!

The Tramway is closed during winter. And on summers it is usually crowded. I am told that the best time to visit during summer, to avoid waiting in the long line is early in the morning or late in the evening.

I tried to capture the short but once-in-a-lifetime journey in pictures…but as the old adage goes –photos can never do justice to life-changing moments. This was one, it taught me to stand still and be in the moment; soak in the moment because it is not every day you get to enjoy a slice of heaven.

The trip was made possible by the Canadian Tourism Commission. But the opinions expressed are my own. 

WHERE TO STAY IN JASPER NATIONAL PARK — TEKARRA LODGE

Tekarra Lodge is easily one of the most beautiful lodges that I had ever stayed. It is nestled in the midst of the magnificent Jasper National Park, Canada. It is just a short drive from Jasper town, I was told. The distance didn't matter at all. Because of the beauty that was rolling past outside the window — mountains, rivers, lakes in different hues. 

The famous Tekarra restaurant

I was allotted a beautiful white and yellow cabin, with its own private deck from where I could sit and drink in the breath taking view of majestic mountains and even catch a wee bit of wildlife — squirrels, deer etc.

It was a cozy cabin with its own fire place — the real deal! There is something rustically charming about hardwood cabins. No television and no phones only added to that charm. And, this is a big AND, I loved the fact that you could bring pets to this place. Of course, my dog was back home across the ocean, but just the thought that I could bring her here on a holiday had Tekarra Lodge score big on my list. 

Picture-postcard wood cabins

Inside the cabin there's a fully-equipped compact kitchen — complete with utensils, plates, pots, pans, toaster, coffeemaker — of course, I was on a holiday; who in their right mind would cook while on holiday except on Travel & Living Channel?  And especially when you have an amazing restaurant, just a hop-skip-and-jump away. Tekarra restaurant is one of Jasper's hot spots.  Warm, cosy, relaxed...oh I can live here all my life. Those large wooden tables were really welcoming. Apparently, this used to be Marilyn Monroe's favourite haunt. And the food....oh to die for. 

Two rivers merge. A sight to behold.

Oh, there's a teeny-tiny annoying thing about the cabin — the bathroom. It was tiniest of bathrooms I had ever been too. I had to indulge in a bit of gymnastics just to have a shower. But that was only a minor irritant.

Tekarra Lodge is on a ridge, overlooking the convergence of two rivers — the Miette and Athabasca rivers. The two rivers, one hot and the other cold, refuses to mingle for long on their way to the Ocean, a good two days away from Jasper. So one half of the river is emerald green and the other is milky tea-coloured. After a long-stubborn-journey the rivers converge — just in front of Tekarra Lodge —  before continuing their journey to the great infinity. Though I could’ve gone biking or hiking I preferred to sit on one of the many wooden chairs and watch the rivers and the mountains and just soak in the nature, breathe the pure air and contemplate on ‘bliss’.

This is where I spent most of my mornings — soaking in nature

If you are in Jasper National Park, a night at Tekarra Lodge AND a meal at their restaurant is must-have experience.

The Lodge is usually closed for winter and reopens in May.

For more info  http://tekarralodge.com\

Waking up to this can be enthralling — the scene just outside my cabin.

THE GLORIOUS MALIGNE LAKE

If you could visit just one lake in your life then make it the Maligne Lake in Jasper. 

Maligne (pronounced Mah-leen) is the largest lake in the Canadian Rockies. At 22.5 kms it is one of the most scenic lakes I have ever seen.

The water is jewel-toned; emerald in colour

The colour of the skies are different hues of blue, with big fat clouds hanging low

There's an island called Spirit Island in the middle of the lake. It offers a 360 degree view of the lake and the mountains.

The lake is covered by pine trees, which from far away look like marching soldiers

It is famous for the colour of the water, three glaciers visible from the lake and for the Spirit Island

The lake takes its name from the French word for malignant because of the turbulent river that flows from the lake

The lake is one of the most photographed locations in the world

View of the lake from the Maligne Lake Chalet

Wild life is abundant in these parts

GOING DOWN EDMONTON'S RIVER VALLEY ON A SEGWAY

It might be cliched, but there is no other way to explain that day — it was 'just' perfect; beautiful, nicely warm and sunny. A day meant for a trip down the River Valley in Edmonton. 

But on a Segway? Hello, I am from India, what is that? 

Out came the Segways from the River Valley Adventure Company. Riding it was "Chris" someone who could've been in the movies. Never mind. At that moment, I was worried, very much so, about the Segway. 

Chris being the patient teacher

It seemed like somebody attached two large tyres at the end of a long aluminium pole with a handlebar. Excuse me, you want me to ride that? Down the beautiful river valley? I came to Canada to see its beautiful rivers, not end up at the bottom of one, okay?

But Chris being Chris and having seen many 'hyper-ventilating'newbies, calmed us down and patiently, very very patiently, taught us the ropes on how to enjoy the Segway. Once you get the hang of it, you don't want to get off it. A Segway tour is a must-try for everyone. 

Now coming to the River Valley — it is one of the most spectacular sights in Edmonton, Alberta. 

Edmonton's North Saskatchewan River Valley is the largest urban parkland in North America. At 7,400 hectares — it better be the largest. There are 22 parks and over 150 kms of trails that you can enjoy.

The river, I was told, originates from a 325 sq km Columbia Icefield, 1800 mts above sea level. It flows across Alberta, Lake Winnipeg and finally into the Hudson Bay. It is considered to be Canada's historic waterways. 

We took a short drive down the river valley that snaked its way through some beautiful flower gardens, conservatory, and bountiful nature. At the end of the hour, I wanted to do it all over again.

Check out rivervalleyadventure.com 

11 THINGS TO DO IN CHARLOTTETOWN IN PEI, CANADA

Charlottetown waterfront

The only way you can experience a new place is by doing a Julia Roberts — eat, pray, love and do all the things that the locals do…on foot. 

Charlottetown (population 35,000) is no different. It is the urban hub of Prince Edward Island (PEI) in Canada that was formed 15,000 years ago when the glaciers retreated and sea levels rose. 

Here are a few ways to experience Charlottetown — a foodies’ heaven and a fine coastal hangout. 

Have breakfast in a boat

Chef Rober Pendergast — fabulous storyteller too

Nothing in Charlottetown is far from the sea. Take a boat ride to anywhere and nowhere, for the sheer experience of lounging in a boat and gorging on local delicacies surrounded by a blue sea; you also get to meet interesting Charlotte-towners. Chef Robert Pendergast was in-charge of breakfast (blueberry muffins, cherry tea and breakfast sandwiches) on board my boat. The food was great and the ‘stories’, greater. Robert was born in PEI and grew up watching his mother and grandmother cook food in the traditional way. “When my mom slipped those potato dumplings into the boiling soup, she would tell the name of a widow for each dumpling,” he said. Of course when it was Robert’s turn, he fesses up to cheating a few times. “…too many dumplings and not enough widows’ names to go around.” Life at Charlottetown for Robert is what many men around the world dream of — he makes music (he and his brother are also musicians), goes fishing and cooks chowder with oyster fishermen…whenever he wants to; he then translates all those experiences while cooking for and serving his guests. Apparently, he’s the goto-guy for delicious oysters, shellfish and breads in Charlottetown. 

Chomp on seafood: 

PEI fisherman harvest almost 30 types of fish and seafood species. Mussels are found everywhere and inexpensive. You also get the world’s best oysters here. And then there’s the shellfish. Charlottetowners take their shellfish seriously — they even have a shellfish festival in September every year. 

3.Visit the Farmers Market: 
Started in 1984, the Charlottetown Farmers Market (Saturdays between 9 am to 2pm) is a smorgasbord of sights, sounds and smells — homegrown fruits and vegetables, freshly baked breads and pastries from rural bakeries, meat and fish vendors with their fresh haul, homemade desserts, preserves, crafts people….it tickles all your five senses. And while there, according to the PEI Book of everything by Martha Walls, experience the smell of fresh ground coffee from Caledonia House Booth; get certified organic produce from Paul offer’s Booth; a bite of Fox hollow Bakery’s chocolate cake and a taste of Johnny Flynn’s Colville Bay oysters. 




 Eat at a farm-to-table restaurant:

 John Pritchard (r)of Terre Rouge

 Terre Rouge Bistro Marche is one — they do not use any ingredients available beyond a 100-mile radius. This is where you go for some amped up comfort food: delicious charcuterie, hand dipped chocolates, artisanal cheeses and trademark TR Gelato and pastries.

Guzzle beer: 

PEI Brewery Tours is a must if you are an ale lover. You can see and taste for yourself the PEI Brewing Company’s handcrafted ales and lager, brewed on site.

Stroll through Charlottetown:

History comes alive on the cobbled streets of this town. The locals say that in Charlottetown there could be no building higher than the St.Dunstan’s Basilica (built in 1812; 62 mts tall), a beautiful neo-gothic style Roman Catholic Church on Great George Street. The Islanders, it seems, have found a smart way to reign in man’s innate desire to mar pristine skylines by dotting it with skyscrapers. The picturesque town sometimes looks like it’s jumped out of the pages of a Jane Austen novel with its wooden houses, gabled roofs, rolling meadows, blue skies and fluffy white clouds. You will be forgiven for expecting Mr.Darcy to cross your path.

Quaint shops

It's all about olive oil

The brain behind Moonsail Soapworks

Flanking the narrow lanes are unique picture- postcard-kinda shops, like the Moonsail Soapworks. Here you get 16 kinds of handcrafted soaps; around 30,000 soaps are hand cut a year. Customers can pop into the production area at the back of the shop — fragrant and with great music playing in the background; you can see for yourself how the soaps are made before buying one; get the Red Clay bar, made out of the red sand that PEI is famous for. A couple of doors away is The Overman Jewellery and Art, owned by Overman who looks like a champion heavyweight boxer. But he makes really delicate and stunning one-of-a-kind jewellery art — tiny bulbs filled with antique watch parts or a chain made entirely of a special kind of bees wings which are sourced from a bee-farm in Taiwan. In most of these little shops you can see and interact with the artists at work. There’s something charming about the intimate environs of these shops.

8.Confederation Centre of Arts:

This is home to the country’s longest running musical — Anne of Green Gables — since it opened in 1965. Anne of Green Gables, by Lucy Montgomery was published in 1908. Each year 250,000 people visit Cavendish the fictitious birthplace of Anne. And the Confederation Centre art gallery is Atlantic Canada’s largest art gallery; there are six exhibition spaces featuring a range of art works. The gallery has a permanent collection of more than 16000 works. 

The Province House:

A walk in Charlottetown is incomplete without a visit to this neo-classical colonial building. In September 1864, 23 political leaders (known as the Fathers of Confederation) from the British colonies got together here for a conference, which led to the creation of Canada in 1867. In the summer months historical vignettes are offered by confederation players — a troupe that plays the roles of Fathers and Ladies of Confederation, in hoop skirts and top coats. 

Peake’s Wharf:

This historic waterfront is where the Fathers of Confederation landed. Today, it is dotted with 20 unique shops — including the world famous and Canada’s leading ice cream, Cows Ice Cream. From July to August the Peake’s Wharfs summer concert series is held here and is touted as a must-experience event for the locals and tourists alike.

Drive to the beach: 

PEI has 1600 kms of shoreline and is known for its beaches and red cliffs. A few minutes’ drive from Charlottetown will take you to some of the most amazing red sand beaches. Without this a trip to Charlottetown will be lacking.

Some more scenes from PEI

BECONSFIELD — A HOUSE FROZEN IN TIME

Beconsfield, PEI, Canada

There are many beautiful homes in Charlottetown in Prince Edward Island, Canada Most have been around for many decades and carry a history within its walls. 

However, the most striking home in the whole of Charlottetown is one where nobody resides.

The buttery-yellow and white coloured Beaconsfield home is a remarkable two-storied structure built in 1877. It was built for a rich shipbuilder, James and his wife Edith Peake.

Stepping into the house, you can’t help but travel back in time.

Three things captivate you immediately:

1. It is a house of stunning wall papers and carpets in rich hues! Each and every room is covered with reams and reams of intricately designed wall papers. 
2. The outstanding craftsmanship of all the things in the house -from furniture to pictures, trinkets, clocks, door hinges, accessories and of course…the carpets.
3. Lastly, every room is frozen in time.



It's a house filled with exquisite carpets and wallpaper

Though the lavish interiors do not scream, you cannot help but sense that the house exudes a subtle knowingness of its extravagance.

As I walked from room to room -living room, dining room, kitchen, pantry, tea room, sewing room, nursery, study, master bedroom, guest bedrooms and…some more rooms- I couldn’t help but feel melancholic. If maybe, you stood still for a moment, you might…just a teeny-weeny-bit might…hear the sighs and whispers of sadness and hope of the people who lived under its roof eons ago.

The sewing room

Apparently, the Peakes were not able to enjoy the fruits of their labor for long. James’ business failed and he fell into financial hardship; the house had to be auctioned off along with all that it held. James Peake walked out of the house that he so lovingly built with only the clothes on his back (and maybe a toothbrush). It is said he died soon after, lonely and poor.

The house was bought by Henry Cundall who was unable to sell the house and finally decided to move into Beaconsfield in 1833 along with his two sisters. None of the Cundalls ever married. After Henry Cundall’s death the house was used as a young ladies’ residence. It then became Cundall Home –a residence for student nurses.

Dining room leading to the pantry and the kitchen

Today it is under the care of PEI Heritage and Museum Foundation. And is used to host concerts, lectures and special events in the Carriage House attached to the home and in the surrounding grounds of the house which overlooks the waterfront –a stunning view! If you are a lover of all things historic, heritage and fine craftsmanship, and also a sucker of 'stories of eons' then The Beconsfield house should be on your list of 'must-see'.

Here are some pictures that I took of the Beaconsfield home:

Informal living room

Formal living room

One of the many bedrooms

The nursery

Gardens. The house overlooks the waterfront

For more information check Our Island story — One museum, seven sites

Thanks to Prince Edward Island Tourism for their hospitality. The opinions expressed here are 100% my own.