NATIVE INSIGHT - PONDICHERRY

Pondicherry. Photo:pondicherrywiki

Name: Ramaa Shanker

Ramaa Shanker

Where do you live?

Pondicherry, South India.

How long have you lived in this place?

I have been in and out of Pondicherry for the last 23 years and I have been living here for the last nine years.

What do you do?

I am a food consultant and a writer. Currently, I am writing a book on temples.

Must-see places in Pondicherry?

• Ayyanar koil (temple) in Puthupet. In this temple and the surrounding village is practiced the native horse worship, a centuries old tradition. It is said that if you have a problem, you can write it on a piece of paper, circle the idol of the horse thrice and tie the paper around the idol along with a lime, and your problems get solved. This is something only the locals know about.
• Aurobindo paper factory on Gingee salai (road). It is an unusual paper factory where you can browse through beautiful stationery and creations of handmade paper. You can also get your visiting cards printed here. You will find the 91-year-old owner of the factory, Sri Anirudh sitting in a corner. A devotee and student of Mother and Sri Aurobindo, he has a huge hall filled with life-size statues of Hindu gods and goddesses — in black. Worth seeing.
• Private beaches where different therapies, like colour therapy, scented candle therapy etc are practiced. The local people will be able to point you in the right direction.
• The island of Chunamber Lake. Even though it is listed in the map of Tourism of Pondicherry, very few people know or go to this beautiful island.

What’s the best way to see Pondicherry?

Cycle rickshaw. You can ask the rickshaw driver to take you around to the French part of Pondicherry; visit the forgotten places  — old churches, buildings and even Auroville. It is one of the most well-known attractions of Pondicherry. But when you are in Auroville do not forget to eat at Roma’s kitchen — you get authentic Punjabi/Italian cuisine.

What is Pondicherry famous for?

It is famous for food, French architecture and art.

The French quarters in Pondicherry. Photo: pondicherrywiki.com

ART:

• Artists from across the world come here to paint and continue living here. It is an ideal place for artists to work since nobody disturbs them here.
• If you are interested in art then you should pay a visit to the following: Olaf Van Cleef is one of the most famous artists in Pondicherry and has his own gallery in Vaithikuppam. He paints with stones.
• Aurodhan art gallery owned by Lalit features not only artists from all over the world, but also features live performances in the garden house in Vaithikuppam. It’s usually an evening soiree and by invitation only. But one can bring any number of guests along.

FOOD:

• You get the best Gujarati sweets and savories in Pondicherry. You also get the best croissants and different kinds of French bread here.
• You should try the Auroville cheese and pizza made by an Italian lady at Auroville.
• Pondicherry is also famous for home-made preserves, jams and spreads. Only the locals know where they are available. Ask them to point you to the right place and you will not be disappointed.
• Try the roadside eating joints which line the streets and the promenade in the evenings for local specialities like the mutta dosa (egg pancake) and kothu paratha.

SHOPPING:

• You get the best crepe silk in Pondicherry. It is also known for unique cotton skirts and tops at a reasonable price. Auroville makes some chic clothes for export to Paris, and the same are also sold at retail-stores in Poindicherry.
• Other things that are unique to Pondicherry are the agarbathis and candles , the aromas and perfumes , the paper lanterns, lamps and furniture ---all unusual.
• If you are interested in antique furniture then you will enjoy Pondicherry. You can get an antique, chair, table, bed, lamp…for a bargain. Again, ask the locals to help you with the right places.

What an outsider should know about Pondicherry?

• French is spoken and understood by people in Pondicherry. The other two language are English and Tamil.
• You can wear any kind of clothes from shorts to minis, people are least judgmental, except while entering religious places.
• You will find numerous soothsayers, face readers and people with highly developed visions in and around the neighbouring villages.
• Be careful when ordering meat dishes in some places. In a lot of places, beef can be served instead of lamb. So you need to be clear and specific while ordering meat dishes.
• If you want to have a drink then visit only well-known bars (ask your hotel staff or local people to help you). It is best to avoid small local bars as they can be dicey.

One thing that you should never do in Pondicherry?

Never pick up a fight with the locals. They are friendly people. But many still carry an aruval (long knife) like the characters in Tamil films.

The one thing you should not miss doing in Pondicherry?

Walk down the pier, munching  on groundnuts.